Adapted from, The Country Housewife and Lady's Director, Part II
(1732), Richard Bradley
Both recipes from, Fresh from the Past, recipes and revelations
from Moll Flanders Kitchen, by Sandra Sherman
Wine and sugar were thought to moderate the sharpness of pineapple
- the combination appears in most early pineapple recipes.
for custards (see below*)
One medium pineapple, ripe (preferably extra sweet)
Half cup of Madeira wine
Quarter cup firmly packed light brown sugar
One egg white (optional)
Half-cup heavy cream for serving
oven to 425 F.
Roll out top and bottom pastry for nine-inch tart pan. Line pan
with bottom pastry. Cut top pastry into half-inch strips; set aside.
Twist crown off pineapple. Quarter, core and peel. Cut pineapple
into quarter inch chunks. Simmer with wine and sugar until pineapple
color deepens slightly (about thirty to forty minutes). Cool.
Fill pastry-lined pan with pineapple mixture. Arrange pastry strips
over filling to create a lattice. Seal strips at edges and trim
excess pastry. Brush lattice with egg white, if desired. Bake until
golden brown, about thirty to forty minutes.
Serve warm, topped with cream.
Pastry for Custards
Three quarter cups (one and one half sticks) cold butter
One and three quarter cups flour
Two egg yolks
Three tablespoons heavy cream
butter into quarter inch pieces. Cut butter in flour until texture
resembles course cornmeal. Add egg yolks and cream. Knead by hand
just until dough holds together in ball. Cover dough ball with plastic
wrap and refrigerate fifteen minutes. Roll out as needed.
For a sweet pastry for custard, add three tablespoons sugar when
incorporating yolks and cream.
Cheese Ice Cream
Adapted from, The Compleat Confectioner, Hannah Glasse (c. 1760)
Parmesan cheese was carried from Italy by mule over the Apennines
Mountains. Cane syrup is available in most specialty and Asian markets.
The flavors of cane syrup and Parmesan cheese are worlds apart,
but they blend together so that each complements the other. Without
a doubt, this ice cream can be served for dessert. However, there
are Italian versions made without sugar that are served between
courses to clear the palate.
cups heavy cream
Two tablespoons cane syrup (see note above)
One-cup light corn syrup
Six eggs, well beaten
Three ounces Parmesan cheese, finely grated (about one cup loosely
cream, cane sugar, corn syrup, and sugar on medium heat until liquid
is hot to touch. Whisk in eggs. Cook, stirring constantly until
mixture thickens or reaches 170 F. Add cheese and stir until well
mixed, about one minute. Strain through fine sieve, discarding solids.
Allow to cool. Freeze in ice cream maker according to instructions.